Perth's Samsung fault code lookup
Samsung fault codes decoded
108 codes covered — what each one means, the likely cause, and whether it's worth trying something yourself before booking. Compiled from Samsung documentation.
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Samsung shows its fault code on the indoor unit's display without you pressing anything — but there are two catches. The R32 Wind-Free 2.0 and Quantum 2.0 series print the same faults with a C prefix instead of E (C154 rather than E154), and ducted systems hide the code behind a Test button on the wall controller. Both are covered below, along with the older 2-digit codes.
Before you scroll: exact meanings can vary between model series — treat this as a well-informed starting point, not a service manual for your specific unit. And if a code appears alongside burning smells, breaker trips or water pouring from the unit, skip the table: switch off and call 0434 951 341.
How to find your Samsung fault code
1
Wall splits — the code shows itself
- 1 The code appears on the indoor unit's display where the temperature normally reads, usually flashing. Nothing to press.
- 2 Current models show a 3-digit code with an E prefix (E154). The R32 Wind-Free 2.0 and Quantum 2.0 series print the same faults with a C prefix (C154) — read the digits, ignore the letter.
- 3 Older models show a 2-digit code instead. These map to the modern codes by their last two digits: 21 = E121, 22 = E122, 54 = E154, 63 = E163.
2
Ducted and cassettes — press Test
- 1 The wired wall controller shows only a small warning icon when a fault is active — not the code.
- 2 Press the TEST button on the controller to reveal the actual code (it may be recessed behind the flip-down cover, needing a pen tip).
- 3 Codes beginning E6xx are generated by the controller itself — its own wiring, sensor or master/slave setup — rather than by the air conditioner.
3
Units with lamps instead of a display
- 1 Samsung does NOT use flash-counting. The fault is encoded in a combination of several lamps, each solid, blinking or off — which needs the service manual to decode.
- 2 The practical move is to photograph or video the lamps and send that to your technician.
- 3 Two patterns are normal, not faults: blinking once every 2 seconds means the unit has just had a power reset; once every 10 seconds means the outdoor unit is defrosting.
- 4 Capture the lamps before switching off — the indication disappears with the power.
Worth knowing: Samsung has used several numbering generations, and the same number doesn't always mean the same thing: the outdoor condenser sensor is E231 on wall splits but E237 on FJM multi-splits, some codes exist only on multi-splits (E190, E199 and the E33x pipe-sensor family), and three-phase-only codes such as E425 can't occur on the single-phase units used in most Australian homes. Quote your model number along with the code when booking.
Samsung fault code tables
Try this first safe check before calling anyone Book a service needs a technician Switch off & call stop running the system
Display and status codes (not faults)
| Code | What it means | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|---|
| CF | Clean Filter reminder. The unit has counted enough running hours that Samsung wants the filters cleaned. It is a maintenance prompt, not a breakdown. | Normal accumulated run time, or genuinely dust-clogged filters — arrives sooner in dusty homes or with pets. | Try this first Slide out the front panel filters, wash them in lukewarm water, dry them fully in the shade (never in direct sun or with a hairdryer) and refit. Samsung recommends this about every 2 weeks. Then reset the filter indicator using the filter reset function on the remote. |
| Cl | Auto Clean indicator. The indoor unit is running its internal dry-out cycle to remove moisture and odour from the coil after cooling. | Normal operation — the fan continues for a period after shutdown to dry the evaporator. | Try this first Nothing is wrong. Let the cycle finish rather than killing power at the wall — interrupting it repeatedly is what causes musty smells. |
| dF | Defrost in progress. In heating mode the outdoor coil has iced up and the system has temporarily reversed to melt it off. | Normal cold, damp weather operation. Indoor airflow pauses so you are not blasted with cold air, and steam may rise from the outdoor unit. | Try this first Wait 5 to 10 minutes — heating resumes automatically. The indoor lamp blinking once every 10 seconds is the documented defrost signal, not a fault. |
Communication and addressing faults
| Code | What it means | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|---|
| E101 | The indoor unit is not receiving any data from the outdoor unit. Communication between the two has stopped. | Damaged, loose or corroded interconnecting communication wire, a terminal that has worked loose, water ingress at the outdoor terminal block, no power reaching the outdoor unit, or a failed control board at either end. | Try this first Switch the system off at the isolator or circuit breaker, leave it off for a full 2 minutes, then restore power. A genuine dropout sometimes clears. If E101 returns, stop and book a technician — the wiring must not be opened by a homeowner. |
| E102 | Communication error between the indoor and outdoor unit, reported at the indoor unit — the link timed out or the data arriving was corrupt. | Damaged or loose interconnecting communication wiring, water ingress at a terminal block, no power at the outdoor unit, or a failed PCB. (E101 is the related indoor-side communication error.) | Try this first Try one 2-minute power-off at the breaker. If the code comes straight back, book a technician — repeated resets on a comms fault achieve nothing. |
| E108 | Duplicate address error — two or more indoor units on the same system have been given the same address. | Address switches set identically on two indoor units, almost always after an install, a board replacement or an extra head being added to a multi-split. | Book a service |
| E185 | Power line misconnected to the indoor unit communication line | Same class of wiring fault as E460, detected from the indoor side: mains conductor bridged onto the comms terminal, damaged/pinched interconnect cable, or a rodent-chewed cable shorting active to comms. | Switch off & call |
| E186 | SPI/MPI feedback error on the indoor PCB (internal micom communication failure) | Indoor main PCB internal fault, corrupted firmware, or a damaged ribbon/option connector between the main board and display board. Often follows a power surge or lightning event. | Book a service |
| E201 | Indoor to outdoor communication failed during initial tracking, or the number of indoor units actually connected does not match the quantity programmed into the outdoor unit. | Commissioning error on a multi-split — wrong indoor quantity setting on the outdoor unit, an indoor unit not powered, or a communication cable not landed. | Book a service |
| E202 | No response from the indoor unit or units after tracking completed — all indoor units have gone silent to the outdoor unit. | Outdoor communication cable fault, loss of power to indoor units, or an outdoor main board failure. | Book a service |
| E203 | Internal communication error inside the outdoor unit between the inverter board and the main control board. | Failed ribbon or harness between the two boards, or one of the boards has failed. | Book a service |
| E460 | Indoor-to-outdoor communication wire miss-connection (comms cable landed on a power terminal) | Installer or repairer wired the F1/F2 comms conductor onto an active/neutral terminal, or the terminal block numbering was crossed between indoor and outdoor. Puts mains voltage onto the comms line and commonly destroys the indoor and/or outdoor PCB. | Switch off & call |
| E556 | Capacity mismatch between indoor and outdoor units | Indoor and outdoor capacities, jumper/option code, model or platform do not match — typically after a PCB replacement without re-entering the option code, a mixed-brand-generation pairing, or the wrong head fitted to a multi-split. Very common post-repair fault; confirm setup before quoting parts. | Book a service |
| E557 | Option code mismatch among indoor units / DPM remote controller option error | Two or more indoor units on a multi-split or ducted system carry conflicting option codes, or the wired controller option code was set incorrectly after a board swap. | Book a service |
| E563 | Incompatible indoor unit software versions on the same system | Mixed-generation indoor units connected to one outdoor unit, or an indoor PCB replaced with a board carrying non-matching firmware. Appears when an old multi-split has one head replaced with a current model. | Book a service |
Indoor unit sensors and components
| Code | What it means | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|---|
| E121 | The indoor room temperature sensor is reading open or short circuit — the unit cannot tell what the room temperature is. | Failed thermistor, a sensor knocked out of its holder, or a disconnected/corroded sensor plug on the indoor board. | Book a service |
| E122 | Indoor coil inlet (evaporator-in) temperature sensor open or short circuit. | Failed pipe thermistor or a loose connector on the indoor PCB. | Book a service |
| E123 | Indoor coil outlet (evaporator-out) temperature sensor open or short circuit. | Failed pipe thermistor or a loose connector on the indoor PCB. | Book a service |
| E128 | The indoor coil inlet sensor has detached — it is still electrically connected but has fallen out of contact with the pipe, so its readings are wrong rather than absent. | Sensor clip or holder has come loose from the pipe, commonly after a service, a filter change or vibration. | Book a service |
| E129 | Indoor evaporator OUT (EVA-OUT) sensor detached from the coil | Sensor bulb has fallen out of its holder on the outlet pipe of the indoor coil (common after a coil clean or a filter/fascia removal). The reading no longer tracks pipe temperature, so the unit stops. Companion code to E128 (EVA-IN detached), which is already covered. | Book a service |
| E130 | Simultaneous detachment of both indoor EVA-IN and EVA-OUT sensors | Both coil sensors dislodged at once — almost always a botched coil clean, a sensor loom pulled out during service, or the whole sensor harness unplugged from the indoor PCB. | Book a service |
| E143 | Motion detection sensor error on models fitted with occupancy sensing. | Failed motion sensor module or its connection. Only affects the motion-based energy-saving feature. | Book a service |
| E151 | Indoor unit electronic expansion valve (EEV) fails to open | Seized or jammed EEV, failed EEV coil, unplugged/damaged EEV connector on the indoor PCB, or a failed driver circuit. Symptom is one room in a multi-split or one zone of a ducted system not cooling/heating while others work. | Book a service |
| E152 | Indoor unit electronic expansion valve (EEV) fails to close | Stuck-open EEV or failed coil — causes refrigerant migration to an idle indoor unit, so an off room blows cold air, or the running rooms lose capacity. Same fault family as E151. | Book a service |
| E153 | Indoor unit float switch error, second detection — condensate is backing up and the safety switch has tripped again. | Blocked or kinked condensate drain, a failed drain pump, or a faulty float switch. | Try this first Find the external condensate drain outlet (usually a small pipe discharging outside near the outdoor unit or into a gully) and check it is not blocked by leaves, insects or a wasp nest, and that no water is backing up. Do not go into the roof space. If the outlet is clear or you cannot find it, book a technician — left unresolved this floods ceilings. |
| E154 | Indoor fan error. The unit has commanded the indoor fan to run but the board is not getting the correct speed feedback — the fan is not turning, is turning at the wrong speed, or is reporting nothing. | Seized or obstructed fan barrel, failed indoor fan motor, failed run capacitor on older models, or a fan control circuit fault on the indoor board. | Book a service |
| E161 | Mixed operation mode error — an indoor unit has asked for the opposite mode to the one the outdoor unit is set up to deliver. | On multi-splits and any cooling-or-heating-only system, all heads must run the same mode. Set them to match. | Try this first Set every indoor head on the system to the same mode — all cooling or all heating (fan-only is usually acceptable). If they already match and the code persists, book a technician to check the indoor option codes. |
| E162 | Indoor unit EEPROM hardware error — the memory chip holding the unit's settings cannot be read or written. | Failed EEPROM chip or a corrupted indoor control board, sometimes following a power surge or lightning event. | Book a service |
| E163 | Indoor unit option (EEPROM) setting error — the installer option code is missing or incorrect. | Option code never entered, or entered wrongly, usually after a PCB replacement. Re-entering the correct option code fixes it; the board only needs replacing if the code persists. | Book a service |
| E164 | Indoor unit connected to an outdoor unit that does not support the Wind-Free function (model/software incompatibility) | Wind-Free indoor head paired with a non-Wind-Free or older-firmware outdoor unit, wrong option code after a PCB replacement, or a mixed-generation multi-split combination. Very common when a single head is swapped on an existing multi. | Book a service |
| E165 | Electric heater discharge temperature protection trip | In-duct auxiliary electric heater overheating: blocked return-air filter, closed zone dampers, undersized ductwork, or failed heater thermostat/limit. Applies to ducted units fitted with an electric heater bank. | Try this first |
| E166 | No-airflow error while the electric heater is energised | Heater called while the indoor fan is not proving airflow — failed indoor fan motor or capacitor, slipped blower, or a fan feedback (Hall) signal fault. Safety trip to prevent a duct fire. | Switch off & call |
| E198 | The thermal fuse at the indoor unit terminal block has blown open. This is a one-shot safety device that only opens when the terminal block has overheated. | Overheating at the electrical terminal block, typically caused by a loose or poorly terminated connection creating high resistance, or by a failed indoor board. It is a genuine fire-risk indicator. | Switch off & call |
| E701 | Float switch detection (drain fault) on FJM multi-split and older ducted/cassette platforms | Condensate not draining: blocked or sagging drain line, failed or airlocked condensate pump, dirty float switch, or drain trap installed with the wrong fall. Older-platform equivalent of E153; worth listing because customers on FJM equipment see E701 rather than E153. | Try this first |
Outdoor unit sensors
| Code | What it means | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|---|
| E221 | Outdoor ambient air temperature sensor open or short circuit — the system cannot read the outside temperature. | Failed thermistor, water ingress into the sensor or its plug, or a chafed sensor lead. Also affects defrost timing and operating-limit logic. | Book a service |
| E226 | Outdoor ambient temperature sensor detached | Sensor has fallen out of its clip or holder in the outdoor unit airstream, so it no longer tracks ambient. Distinct from E221 (open/short), which is already covered. | Book a service |
| E231 | Outdoor condenser coil temperature sensor open or short circuit (wall splits and cassettes). | Failed coil thermistor, or a sensor plug corroded or disconnected inside the outdoor unit. | Book a service |
| E237 | Outdoor condenser (COND) temperature sensor error — short or open circuit. | Failed or disconnected condenser thermistor. Used on FJM multi-split and ducted equipment; wall splits report the equivalent fault as E231. | Book a service |
| E251 | Compressor discharge temperature sensor open or short circuit — the system has lost its main compressor protection sensor. | Failed discharge thermistor or a disconnected sensor plug. The system will usually refuse to run the compressor without it, which is deliberate. | Book a service |
| E261 | Compressor discharge temperature sensor detached | Discharge thermistor has slipped off the discharge pipe or its clamp has failed — the reading no longer follows compressor discharge temperature, which disables discharge-temperature protection. Distinct from E251 (open/short), which is already covered. | Book a service |
| E320 | Compressor OLP (overload protector) temperature sensor open or short circuit. | Failed OLP sensor mounted on the compressor body, or its wiring. | Book a service |
| E330 | Pipe IN-A temperature sensor open or short circuit — the sensor on refrigerant branch A of a multi-split outdoor unit. | Failed branch pipe thermistor or connector. Multi-split (FJM) systems only. | Book a service |
| E331 | Pipe IN-B temperature sensor open or short circuit — refrigerant branch B of a multi-split outdoor unit. | Failed branch pipe thermistor or connector. Multi-split (FJM) systems only. | Book a service |
| E332 | Pipe IN-C temperature sensor open or short circuit — refrigerant branch C of a multi-split outdoor unit. | Failed branch pipe thermistor or connector. Multi-split (FJM) systems only. | Book a service |
| E333 | Pipe IN-D temperature sensor error (short or open) | Port D liquid-line thermistor on a 4- or 5-port multi-split outdoor unit is open, shorted, or unplugged. Missing from the current list, which only covers E330-E332. | Book a service |
| E334 | Pipe IN-E temperature sensor error (short or open) | Port E liquid-line thermistor on a 5-port multi-split outdoor unit is open, shorted, or unplugged. | Book a service |
| E335 | Pipe OUT-A temperature sensor open or short circuit — outlet sensor on refrigerant branch A of a multi-split outdoor unit. | Failed branch pipe thermistor or connector. Multi-split (FJM) systems only. | Book a service |
| E336 | Pipe OUT-B temperature sensor open or short circuit — outlet sensor on refrigerant branch B of a multi-split outdoor unit. | Failed branch pipe thermistor or connector. Multi-split (FJM) systems only. | Book a service |
| E337 | Pipe OUT-C temperature sensor error (short or open) | Port C gas-line thermistor faulty or disconnected on a 3-port-plus multi-split. Companion to E335/E336, which are already covered. | Book a service |
| E338 | Pipe OUT-D temperature sensor error (short or open) | Port D gas-line thermistor faulty or disconnected on a 4- or 5-port multi-split outdoor unit. | Book a service |
| E339 | Pipe OUT-E temperature sensor error (short or open) | Port E gas-line thermistor faulty or disconnected on a 5-port multi-split outdoor unit. | Book a service |
Protection and operating-limit codes
| Code | What it means | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|---|
| E401 | Outdoor unit freezing safety control, first detection (compressor stopped) | Evaporator/coil approaching freeze conditions: dirty return filters, blocked indoor coil, low fan speed, restricted airflow to the outdoor coil, or low refrigerant charge. First-stage version of E403, which is already covered. | Try this first |
| E403 | Compressor stopped by freeze-protection control after repeated freeze detections. Ducted and DVM equipment. | Restricted indoor airflow (blocked filters or returns), low refrigerant charge, or a faulty sensor. | Try this first Check and clean the return-air filters and make sure supply and return grilles aren't blocked, then restart. If it trips again, book a service. |
| E404 | The system has shut down on overload protection — the outdoor unit cannot reject heat fast enough and has stopped to protect itself. | Blocked outdoor coil or restricted airflow around the outdoor unit, extremely hot weather, a failed outdoor fan, or an overcharged/faulty refrigerant circuit. | Try this first With the system switched off, clear leaves, grass clippings, garden growth and stored items away from the outdoor unit — Samsung requires clear air path around and above it. Gently hose the outdoor coil fins from outside (never with a pressure washer). Restore power and retry once the unit has cooled. If E404 returns, book a technician. |
| E407 | Compressor stopped by high-pressure protection control | Head pressure too high: outdoor coil blocked with dust/lint/grass, outdoor fan not running, unit boxed in with no airflow clearance, overcharge, or a blocked liquid line. On heating, a dirty indoor coil or closed zones will do the same. | Try this first |
| E410 | Compressor stopped by low-pressure protection control | Suction pressure too low: refrigerant leak/undercharge, partly closed service valve, blocked filter drier or EEV, or severe indoor airflow restriction. Usually accompanies ice on the suction line. | Book a service |
| E416 | Compressor stopped by discharge-temperature protection. The system retries automatically up to three times before latching this code. | Low refrigerant charge (a leak), a restriction in the circuit, or a blocked outdoor coil driving discharge temperature up. | Switch off & call |
| E440 | Heating has been blocked because the outdoor temperature is above Samsung's permitted heating range. The system is refusing to heat by design, not failing. | Trying to run heating on a warm day. Can also be triggered by a faulty outdoor ambient sensor reporting an incorrectly high temperature. | Try this first Switch the unit to cooling or fan mode. If E440 appears when it is genuinely cold outside, the outdoor temperature sensor is suspect — book a technician. |
| E441 | Cooling has been blocked because the outdoor temperature is below Samsung's permitted cooling range. Again a designed restriction, not a breakdown. | Trying to run cooling on a cold day. Can also be triggered by a faulty outdoor ambient sensor reporting an incorrectly low temperature. | Try this first Switch to heating or fan mode. If E441 appears on a hot day, the outdoor temperature sensor is suspect — book a technician. |
| E452 | Instantaneous power failure detected (clears once the compressor restarts) | Momentary supply interruption, loose or heat-damaged terminal-block connection, undersized/shared circuit, or brownout. Often reported after a storm or by customers on rural/overloaded supply. | Try this first |
| E500 | IPM/inverter power module overheat — the heatsink on the outdoor inverter board has exceeded its safe temperature. | Failed outdoor fan, blocked outdoor coil, degraded thermal paste or mounting on the power module, or a failing inverter board. | Switch off & call |
| E508 | Smart install / pipe-check commissioning routine not performed | Outdoor unit was never put through its self-commissioning (smart install) sequence after installation, pipe extension, or PCB replacement. The unit will not run correctly until the routine is completed. | Book a service |
Compressor, inverter and electrical faults
| Code | What it means | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|---|
| E419 | Outdoor unit EEV open self-diagnosis error | Outdoor electronic expansion valve fails to open during self-test: failed EEV coil, unplugged connector, seized valve, or driver circuit fault on the outdoor main PCB. Companion to E422 (close error), which is already covered. | Book a service |
| E425 | Reverse phase or open phase detected on a three-phase supply. | Supply phases connected in the wrong rotation, or one phase lost. Applies only to three-phase units — most Australian residential splits and small ducted systems are single-phase and cannot show this. | Switch off & call |
| E458 | Outdoor fan 1 motor error — the fan is locked, obstructed, or its speed feedback is out of range. | Failed fan motor, debris jamming the fan, or a wiring/PCB fault. On twin-fan outdoor units the second fan reports separately as E475. | Try this first Switch off at the isolator, clear leaves and debris from around and inside the outdoor fan guard, then restore power after 2 minutes. |
| E461 | Inverter compressor starting failure — the compressor failed to start after repeated attempts (typically five). | Seized or failing compressor, inverter PCB fault, wiring problem, or a service valve left closed. | Switch off & call |
| E462 | The system stopped because total input current hit the full-load current limit. | Overloaded or failing compressor, restricted refrigerant circuit, low supply voltage, or a failing inverter board. | Switch off & call |
| E463 | Over-current trip or PFC over-current — the power factor correction stage has drawn more current than permitted. | Compressor overload, incoming supply problem, or a failed PFC/inverter board. | Switch off & call |
| E464 | IPM over-current — the intelligent power module driving the compressor has tripped on excess current. | Compressor winding short or seizure, closed service valve causing extreme load, refrigerant circuit blockage, or a failed power module. | Switch off & call |
| E465 | Compressor voltage-limit or current-limit error — the compressor is drawing outside its permitted electrical envelope. | Closed service valve, abnormal refrigerant pressure, an outdoor fan that is not running, or a failing compressor or inverter board. | Switch off & call |
| E466 | DC-link voltage under or over range — the internal high-voltage DC bus that drives the compressor is outside its safe window. | Incoming mains supply problem (brownout, poor connection, voltage spike), failed DC-link capacitors, or a failed inverter board. | Switch off & call |
| E467 | Compressor is rotating abnormally, or a compressor wire is not connected. | A compressor phase lead disconnected or fractured, or the compressor has lost synchronisation and is stalling. | Switch off & call |
| E468 | Output current sensor on the outdoor inverter board is open or short circuit. | Failed current sensing circuit on the inverter board. | Book a service |
| E469 | DC-link voltage sensor open or short circuit — the board cannot measure its own DC bus voltage. | Failed voltage sensing circuit on the outdoor inverter board, or an incoming supply abnormality. | Book a service |
| E470 | Outdoor unit EEPROM read/write error — the stored option data is missing or unreadable. | Corrupted or failed EEPROM, often after a power surge, or a board replaced without data being loaded. | Book a service |
| E471 | Outdoor unit EEPROM read/write error (hardware/OTP) — a deeper memory failure than E470, sometimes reported as a mismatch between the main and inverter microcontrollers. | Failed EEPROM hardware on the outdoor board. | Book a service |
| E472 | AC zero-crossing signal detection error | Inverter PCB cannot detect the mains zero-crossing reference — unstable or out-of-spec supply voltage/frequency, loose active/neutral at the terminal block, or a failed zero-cross detection circuit on the outdoor main PCB. | Book a service |
| E473 | Compressor lock error (compressor will not turn / rotor locked) | Seized or mechanically locked inverter compressor, liquid slugging, severe overcharge, shorted compressor windings, or an IPM output stage fault. One of the most common terminal outdoor-unit faults on ageing inverter splits. | Book a service |
| E474 | IPM/PFCM heatsink temperature sensor on the inverter board is open or short circuit. | Failed heatsink thermistor or its connection on the outdoor inverter board. | Book a service |
| E475 | Second outdoor fan motor error, on larger outdoor units fitted with two fans. | Failed fan 2 motor, obstruction, or outdoor inverter board fault. | Book a service |
| E483 | Hardware-detected DC-link over-voltage — the protection circuit has caught a genuinely excessive DC bus voltage. | Mains over-voltage or surge event, or a failed inverter board. | Switch off & call |
| E484 | PFC overload / over-current error on the power factor correction stage. | Excessive load from the compressor, supply voltage problem, or a failed PFC circuit on the outdoor board. | Switch off & call |
| E485 | Input current sensor on the outdoor inverter board is open or short circuit. | Failed input current sensing circuit on the inverter board. | Book a service |
| E488 | AC input voltage sensor error — the outdoor board cannot correctly read incoming mains voltage. | Failed voltage sensing circuit, or an abnormal incoming supply. | Book a service |
| E590 | Inverter EEPROM checksum error — the inverter board's stored data has failed its integrity check. | Corrupted inverter EEPROM data or a failing outdoor inverter/main board. | Book a service |
Refrigerant and pipework faults
| Code | What it means | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|---|
| E190 | Pipe check error on a multi-split — the outdoor unit could not correctly match indoor units to refrigerant branches. | Liquid and gas pipes crossed between branches, an EEV coil fitted to the wrong branch, an indoor sensor misconnected, or refrigerant leakage. Effectively always an installation fault. | Book a service |
| E191 | No change in EVA-OUT temperature during the pipe-check routine | Companion to E190 (EVA-IN no change), which is already covered. Indicates a closed service valve, blocked/kinked liquid or suction line, an EEV not opening on that port, or crossed pipe/wiring between indoor units on a multi-split. | Book a service |
| E199 | Pipe check operation has not been completed — the multi-split has never been through its commissioning pipe-check routine. | Installer did not run the pipe check after install, or the system has been modified (head added or removed, indoor PCB replaced) without re-running it. | Book a service |
| E422 | High-pressure blockage detected — the system has self-diagnosed that refrigerant cannot flow properly, often reported as an EEV or valve-closed error. | An outdoor service valve left closed after installation or service, a blocked expansion valve or capillary, a crushed or kinked pipe, refrigerant loss, or refrigerant added incorrectly after a pipe run extension. | Switch off & call |
| E442 | Refrigerant charge error detected in heating mode (undercharge) | System short of gas — leak at a flare, brazed joint, coil or service valve, or the pipe run was extended without adding the correct top-up charge. Distinct from E554 (full loss of charge), which is already covered; E442 catches partial undercharge and is the more common real-world leak indication. | Book a service |
| E554 | Gas leak detected — the outdoor unit has determined the refrigerant charge is essentially gone. | A refrigerant leak, most often at flare joints, at the service valves, or from a corroded coil. The system stops to protect the compressor. | Switch off & call |
Wired controller faults (ducted, cassette and multi-split)
| Code | What it means | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|---|
| E601 | Communication between the wired wall controller and the indoor unit has been down for 3 minutes. | Damaged, disconnected or incorrectly terminated 2-core control cable between the controller and the indoor unit, control cable run alongside mains cabling causing interference, indoor unit not powered, or a failed controller. | Book a service |
| E602 | Communication error between master and slave wired controllers where two controllers are fitted to one indoor unit. | Both controllers set as master (or both as slave), or a fault on the link between them. Only one master and one slave may exist. | Book a service |
| E603 | Communication error between the wired controller and the 7-day scheduler / central controller | Broken or shorted control cable between the controller and the scheduler/central unit, incorrect master-slave setting, or a failed scheduler module. | Book a service |
| E604 | Tracking error — the controller and indoor unit failed to establish communication after 10 attempts. | Wrong model of wired controller fitted for the indoor unit, control cable landed on the wrong terminals (COM1 instead of COM2), or a cross-installed COM1/COM2 connection. | Book a service |
| E606 | COM1/COM2 cross-installation error | Wired controller wired to the wrong communication terminal pair on the indoor unit, or the COM1/COM2 DIP switch on the controller does not match the terminal it is landed on. Typical after a controller upgrade or relocation. | Book a service |
| EA | Wired remote controller COM2 option setting error | Controller is physically connected to the indoor COM2 terminal but the COM1/COM2 selection DIP switch has not been set to COM2 (or vice versa). | Book a service |
Legacy 2-digit and short codes (older wall splits)
| Code | What it means | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|---|
| 21 | Room temperature sensor defective — the 2-digit equivalent of the modern E121. | Failed room thermistor or its connection on the indoor board. | Book a service |
| 22 | Heat exchanger temperature sensor defective — the 2-digit equivalent of the modern E122. | Failed indoor coil thermistor or its connection. | Book a service |
| 23 | Heat exchanger outlet (EVA-OUT) sensor open/short — shown as E1 + 23 | Indoor coil outlet thermistor faulty or unplugged on older wall splits. Short form of E123; sits alongside 21 and 22, which are already covered, and its absence leaves an obvious gap in the legacy sensor trio. | Book a service |
| 28 | Heat exchanger inlet (EVA-IN) sensor detached — shown as E1 + 28 | Coil inlet sensor dislodged from its holder on an older wall split, commonly after a DIY coil clean. Short form of E128. | Book a service |
| 53 | Float switch second detection (drain fault) — shown as E1 + 53 on older display panels | Condensate drain blocked or pump failed on an older cassette/ducted indoor unit. Short form of E153; older panels show only the 2-digit portion. | Try this first |
| 54 | Indoor fan motor or capacitor defective — the 2-digit equivalent of the modern E154. | Failed indoor fan motor, failed run capacitor, or an obstructed fan barrel. | Book a service |
| 63 | EEPROM defective — the 2-digit equivalent of the modern E163. | Failed or unconfigured memory chip on the indoor control board. | Book a service |
| E1 | Generic indoor fault indicator on older Samsung wall splits. Samsung's own support material pairs it with the 2-digit codes above, so E1 alone does not identify the fault — the accompanying 2-digit number does. On some models it is used to indicate a room thermistor fault, on others a communication fault. | Varies by model: room sensor failure, heat exchanger sensor failure, fan motor failure, EEPROM failure, or loss of indoor-to-outdoor communication. | Book a service |
| E5 | Indoor heat exchanger sensor short or open circuit on older models. | Failed or dislodged indoor coil thermistor. | Book a service |
| E6 | Outdoor heat exchanger sensor short or open circuit on older models. | Failed or dislodged outdoor coil thermistor. | Book a service |
| E7 | Heater temperature sensor short or open circuit on older models fitted with a supplementary heater. | Failed heater thermistor or its connection. | Book a service |
No matching code found.
Meanings vary by series and some codes are model-specific — call 0434 951 341 with the code and your model number and we'll decode it.
Reference compiled from Samsung service and operation documentation. Codes and meanings are provided as general guidance for the Australian residential range and can differ between model series; no affiliation with Samsung is implied.
Found your code?
Tell us the code when you book — diagnosis starts before we arrive
Fault finding across Perth from $165 inc GST — all brands, splits and ducted. Quoting the fault code gives us a head start on where to look; we then test and confirm the actual fault on site before any part is ordered, so you shouldn't end up paying for a part you didn't need.
The honest next question
Repair or replace your Samsung?
A fault code tells you something's wrong — it doesn't tell you whether the unit is worth fixing. The age of the system is the honest starting point:
Under ~8 years
Repair usually winsMost fault codes on a young unit trace to something sensible — a sensor, a board, a blocked drain — and a proper diagnosis first means you pay for the diagnosed fault, not guesswork. A Samsung under eight years old is normally worth fixing.
8–15 years
Get both numbersThis is judgement-call territory. A cheap fix on a working system is still good money — but if the fault is compressor- or inverter-side, the repair can be a third of a new unit's installed price. Ask for the repair quote and the replacement quote together and decide once, with real numbers.
15+ years
Replacement is usually better moneyEfficiency has moved a long way in a decade — a modern unit cools the same room for a fraction of the running cost — and parts supply for older series thins out with age. At this age, money spent on another repair is usually money towards a unit that's near the end either way.
What replacement actually costs: a like-for-like split swap in Perth typically runs $1,700–$3,800 supply and installed — about the same as a first-time install, because decommissioning the old unit (legal refrigerant reclaim, removal, disposal) offsets the saving from reusing the circuit. The existing circuit can usually be reused if it's compliant; pipework is replaced in almost every case, or properly flushed where new runs aren't practical. Full numbers by size are in our Perth cost guide and the installed price directory.
Frequently Asked Questions
My Samsung shows C154 but your table says E154 — same fault?
Yes. Samsung prints identical fault numbers with an E prefix in most manuals and a C prefix in the R32 Wind-Free 2.0 and Quantum 2.0 documentation. The three digits identify the fault; the letter is just which manual you're holding.
My ducted Samsung shows a warning icon but no code — where is it?
Press the TEST button on the wired wall controller. Samsung's controllers show only a small error icon by default and reveal the actual code when Test is pressed — on some controllers it's recessed behind the flip-down cover and needs a pen tip.
How do I read the lights on a Samsung with no display?
You mostly can't, and that's not your fault: Samsung doesn't use flash-counting like other brands. It encodes faults as a combination of several lamps each held solid, blinking or off, which needs the service manual to decode. Photograph or video the lamps and send that to your technician — and capture it before switching off, because the indication disappears with the power.
My old Samsung shows a 2-digit code — is that in here?
Yes, they're in their own section. The old codes map to the modern ones by their last two digits: 21 = E121, 22 = E122, 54 = E154, 63 = E163. Samsung confirms the causes and fixes are identical, only the display format changed.
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